A simple palate doesn't always mean simple clothing, something demonstrated by Rodarte's Fall collection which proved the power of texture . Predictably unpredictable design duo Kate and Laura Mulleavy are always prone to referencing a medley of influences when configuring their collections, invariably taking us into a world of quizzical fantasy. This season was no different, fusing hints of San Francisco, Art Nouveau and their golden years at Berkley into a hard take on lace frill.

The frenzy of embellishment began with skirts donning ruffled piping that sectioned off alternating patches of leather and Western cowgirl style sequins, while lace and mesh were worked into every form from '80s-style joggers to tiered bridal dresses hand-embroidered with sequined flowers. The dress-up-turned-RTW vibe went down to the details with mismatched earrings in every shape and size topping off the looks.

SHOP: current season Rodarte

Modern layers were the name of the game for Narciso Rodriguez's Fall collection, abandoning his air-tight tailoring in lieu of laid-back lines and flowing silhouettes.

Photos: InDigital

Not dissimilar to his Spring '16 collection, Rodriguez channeled simple colors, this time sourcing earthy greens and browns, that relied on their meticulously placed layers and new-wave textures over an overhaul of pattern and embellishment. Also not dissimilar, bias cuts (a clear favorite of the designer, and why not? He's perfected it), only this time with loosened structure and an air of ease that hasn't been seen before.

Soft and unstructured, yet authoritative and smart seemed to be a theme, as wrinkled robes with oversized, angular collars kicked off the show, followed by a storm of asymmetrical skirts, dresses and tops cleverly layered over silk slips and slim trousers. Carefully placed angular tiers followed the same line from shirt to dress for a Russian doll layering effect, while the engulfing patent leather jacket is sure to be a street style standout.

SHOP: current season Narciso Rodriguez

Photo: Nordstrom Instagram

Beating everyone to the ubiquitous trend that is the '70s revival, Alice + Olivia's Stacey Bendet may be ahead of the curve yet again, moving on from the free-spirited bohemian flower child to the gritty city dweller who looks to frequents Studio 54.

Bendet wanted to return to a time before everyone was jumping ship to LA, when NYC was still a hub for cultural revolutions and empowered women donned bell-bottom pants and snakeskin skirts with over-the-knee suede boots. And return she did, offering up a diverse and eclectic store of primary-hued and heavily embellished skirts and dresses both as mini and maxi ( and Disco-worthy) as they get.

Not a swatch of denim went un-patched, a perfectly retro daytime look before you slip into the gypsy-inspired palazzo pants and matching floor-length frock to up the '70s ante. Really turn the volume up with an almost entirely front slit full-length dress (with short shorts for modesty) or the metallic brocade dusters complete with matching flare trousers.

SHOP: current season Alice + Olivia

Tory Burch was in her groove Tuesday night, revealing a Fall offering of East Coast equestrian duds that fall right in line with her preppy design mantra.
Horse girls may not have the best of reps in the real world, but in Tory Burch's world they are represented not by slim braids and mud-caked jodhpurs, but by reworked, flowing silk jockey uniforms (the diamond motif proving to be a reoccurring theme) and patent leather, patchwork stripe midi skirts. Even the most overt of horse prints seemed like renditions of classic Japanese wave prints, mixing with suede knee-highs and color-blocked wool wrap coats for innovative takes on sportswear classics. Not to miss out on the retro trends taking fashion week by storm, Burch managed to work in a few micro print florals and shag-collared, pastel check pantsuits with the appropriate wide, cuffed leg.

SHOP: current season Tory Burch

-Emma Ranniger