Last Looks: Yesterday's Runways at Preen, Mary Katrantzou, Vivienne Westwood and Paul Smith

Last Looks: Yesterday's Runways at Preen, Mary Katrantzou, Vivienne Westwood and Paul Smith

via

With decades of industry experience, Vivienne Westwood has created an unapologetic design niche, this season breaking away from fall's inescapable bohemian trend and opting for edgy London flair.Creating a collection for adventurous, intellectual femmes (so basically the Dame herself), the designer delivered an offering of juxtaposing designs wrapped into singular looks. She channeled her quirky spirit into slouchy, wearable power suits, evening dresses over tartan trousers and workwear shirts with covetable blazers that played on proportion and crisp tailoring. Of course, there were staple Westwood pieces like a cardinal red check Prince of Wales coat, floral-lined fedoras, statement prints and haphazardly draped silk dresses that prove to be timeless.

Stepping away from her signature digital designs and toward graphic prints, Mary Katrantzou introduced us to her version of the Wild Wild West.

Images: InDigital

For her fall, the Greek designer honed patterning techniques, bringing the mod-cowgirl look full circle with Dolly Parton tracks. Boxy rodeo jackets, tweed trenches, cigarette trousers and pencil skirts were all emblazoned with appliqué stars, hearts and flames for a psychedelic take on Western wear. Embellished sheath dresses broke the mold with shimmering pattern admornments. Collared boyfriend shirtdresses teemed with graphic fur stoles while crumpled patent cowboy shirts tucked into multimedia leather skirts. Keep an eye out on the streets for the luxe and trendy graphic fur statement coats.

SHOP: current season Mary Katrantzou

Sir Paul Smith revived hints of his past Sunday, pulling out inspiration from his archives for a fall collection suited to the boss ladies of the world. Boasting a distinct retro vibe, the collection still felt light with movement-a pleated skirt here, a few ruffles there, a busy floral lurex suit-all riding the line between groovy and conservative. Veering towards classically feminine cuts, Smith paraded strong-shouldered silk-blend workwear accented with singular, vibrant racing stripes and nipped in trouser hems. Charming paisley appliqués were placed spaciously on the front of shift frocks, felted pencil skirts and outerwear making for standout pieces alongside sleek, double-breasted ankle-grazing coats whose simplicity and crisp tailoring showed the power of a good cut.

London Fashion Week often flaunts designers who ride the design line between Old English aristocracy and London punk attitude, a concept that was reworked at Preen 's fall showcase.

For a dash of gothic romance, designers Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi used moody florals and crushed velvets to soften their grunge-inspired plaids, quilted leathers and racy lace. Models rocked Joan Jett-esque mullets while strutting the collection's range of textured fur coats, sizable giant tartan woolen toppers, ruched velvet frocks and heavily-sequined cocktail wear. Vibrant blushes and azures popped against the darker neutrals, not the show's only charming contrast: sexy over-the-knee lace-ups opened the show with more casual daywear and chunky combat boots paired with the eccentric evening wear, closing it.

-Emma Ranniger

Zum Kommentieren anmelden

Follow us on